Are you craving a taste of culinary history? The legendary Uncle Lee, master of Hokkien mee, has resurfaced in Jinjang Selatan, and his charcoal-fried noodles are a dying art you need to experience before it's too late.
After a worrying hiatus following the closure of his Taman Kok Lian stall, Uncle Lee, or Lee Heng See, has found a new home at Kedai Kopi Seng Wai. With over five decades of experience, honed at the iconic Kim Lian Kee (the birthplace of Hokkien mee in 1927), Uncle Lee is a living link to a culinary tradition that's fading fast.
But here's where it gets controversial: Uncle Lee's Hokkien mee isn't your typical greasy, soy sauce-drenched affair. His noodles are coated in a sauce that clings to the flat, yellow strands like a luxurious carbonara, not drowning in a pool of liquid. This technique, requiring masterful wok control and a charcoal flame, imparts a smoky depth that sets his dish apart.
And this is the part most people miss: the subtle complexity of his flavor profile. Instead of relying solely on dark soy sauce, Uncle Lee uses dried flounder fish powder to enhance the braising liquid, resulting in a less cloyingly sweet, more nuanced taste. His homemade 'siong tong,' simmered all day with chicken bones, pork bones, and prawn shells, adds a rich, umami backbone to the dish.
Even the toppings are a testament to tradition. Alongside the usual pork and prawns, Uncle Lee includes pig liver, a once-common ingredient now rarely seen in modern Hokkien mee.
Is this a nostalgic relic or a flavor profile worth preserving? The debate rages on among foodies. Some crave the bolder, sweeter versions found elsewhere, while others appreciate Uncle Lee's nuanced approach.
One thing's for sure: his Hokkien mee is a bargain at RM12, especially compared to the disappointing plates served elsewhere. The comfortable setting of Kedai Kopi Seng Wai, with its 'faux' marble tables, makes for a pleasant dining experience.
While I've only sampled his signature Hokkien mee, whispers from fellow food enthusiasts suggest his moonlight hor fun and Cantonese fried noodles are equally exceptional.
Don't wait too long to try this culinary treasure. With no apprentice to carry on his legacy, Uncle Lee's retirement looms. Will the unique taste of his Hokkien mee disappear forever?
What do you think? Is traditional Hokkien mee worth preserving, or should we embrace modern interpretations? Let us know in the comments!
Kuala Lumpur Petaling Street Charcoal Fried Hokkien Mee
Kedai Kopi Seng Wai
3, Jalan Jambu Gajus,
Jinjang Selatan, Kuala Lumpur.
Open: 11am to 9pm. Closed every Tuesday.
Tel: 012-2957279
Facebook: @KLPetalingStreetHokkienMee (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063980228050)
- This is an independent review. The writer paid for the meal.
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